Exploring the spiritual terrain of the Kirat people opens our eyes to a whole new way of life

Achyut Tiwari and Ramesh Kumar Rai/Nepali Times

There is no better way to understand the Mundum cultural belief system of the Kirat people than to walk across the mountains of eastern Nepal and let the spirits take over.

The Mundum Trail traverses the important landmarks of the Rai, Limbu, Sunuwar and Kulung ethnic groups of the mountains of eastern Nepal, and their way of life that blends shamanism, animism and Shiva worship. 

First introduced in January 2018 to trekkers, the trail passes through important sites of these indigenous Kirat groups from Chakhewa Bhanjyang on the Khotang-Bhojpur border across Mehrung, Maiyung, Lauri, Shilichung peaks, then on to the holy Shalpa Pokhari to Bhojpur and ends at Maiyung and Suntale peaks.

The trail is of moderate difficulty, with the highest point at 4,165m, and being off the beaten track there are not many tea houses, so camping is necessary in the wilderness. There are some lodges in Diktel, Bhojpur and basic amenities at Shalpa Pokhari, but trekkers are advised to carry tents. 

The trail commands a sweeping panorama of the eastern Himalaya with views of most major eight-thousanders, including Mt Everest (8,848.86m) Lhotse (8,516m) Lhotse Shar (8,382m) Makalu (8,463m), Ch Oyu (8,188m) and Kangchenjunga (8,586m). 

There are lesser peaks that are more prominent because they are nearer: Karyolung, Number, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtega, Chamlang, Baruntse, Jannu, and even Gauri Shankar and Langtang far off on the western horizon.  

Besides the views, the trek is also a deep dive into Mundum culture, its rituals, belief system and way of life. The Kirati group here speak 10 different languages, with new dialects in every next village. Besides them, there are a sprinkling of Sherpa and Tamang communities with their own culture and language.

Shalpa Pokhari and Shilichung Peak are two of the most important sites in Mundum culture, and a pilgrimage destination for the Rai and Limbu people. Legends speak of Salpa Pokhari being the inhabited place of the creator goddess. Sumnima and the Sky God, Paruhang from Kirat mythology.  

Because of the heavy rainfall the Mundum trail also has great eco-biological diversity, with wildlife, birds and plants found in great abundance in its verdant slopes, watershed and wetlands. The rhododendron, conifer and bamboo cloud forests teem with red panda, ghoral, danfe pheasant, deer, leopard, Himalayan black bears, and strands of rhododendron, bamboo. 

The transition from temperate to alpine landscape yields to high altitude meadows where villagers bring livestock to graze in the monsoon. This is an important part of life in Mundum culture, and the trail passes many sheds housing yak, sheep, cows and water buffaloes. 

Hiking through the settlements, it is clear that the Kirati people have living in harmony with the nature that they revere, and their way of life is closely tied with the biological diversity of their surroundings. 

The Mundum Trail is a perfect post-Covid-19 trek, where visitors reconnect with nature,  rediscover the importance of maintaining an ecological balance and developing sustainably. This eastern Nepal trek is also a walk back in time, as we see a part of Nepal that has not been over-developed by tourism, and the trails remind us of a time before trekking ‘discovered’ Nepal.

In its 70 years of history of tourism development, Nepal has never witnessed a catastrophe at the level of the Covid-19 pandemic. Tourism entrepreneurs say that things were not as bad even during the Maoist insurgency from 1996 to 2006 or in the aftermath of the 2015 earthquakes in Nepal. 

While it may take time for international tourists to return to Nepal, the Mundum Trail is waiting for travellers who want to experience the real, raw Nepal and discover their country’s rich ethnic diversity and natural splendour.

Achyut Tiwari, PhD, is a lecturer at Tribhuvan University and Ramesh Kumar Rai is a tourism entrepreneur.